Square Meal

Reviewed in Square Meal - Latest Openings (Spring 2003).

Located on an unprepossessing stretch of an Islington B-road, the Barnsbury is very much a local's local & all the better for it. Trad pub stylings like wood panelling have been lovingly restored, while jaunty artwork & quirky chandeliers give the place an unobtrusive modern edge. Best of all, it's great value: starters average £4.70 & mains £9. Kick off, perhaps, with a decent portion of flavoursome, lightly fried squid with piquant salt & pepper scatterings & a moreish sweet chilli dressing. Mains show less finesse: a char-grilled sirloin was too nice a piece of meat to be overpowered by a hot peppercorn sauce. But well-judged desserts like creamy rice pudding topped with a crispy brûlée crust ensure things end on a high note. Friendly service and a chattily annotated wine list are further plusses.

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