Reviewed by Charles Campion, Evening Standard - Metro Life (16 April 2003) Three Stars

The Perfect Gastropub

It shouldn't really be a surprise when experienced catering professionals decide to open up a gastropub and it seems well nigh perfect at the first attempt - but it is surprising, nevertheless. Perhaps this is because of all the feeble gastropubs that spring up every month.

The Barnsbury opened just before Christmas 2002 and has many virtues. The man in the kitchen is Jeremy Gough. Previously general manager at a variety of high-profile establishments, ranging from Sartoria to the Gastrodome at Butler's Wharf, this change of role suits him - he's better in the kitchen. This gastropub gets the food right, the prices right, the decor right and the service right.

Even in the early part of the week the dining room is busy, and service is in the hands of a livewire, pocket battleship kind of Irish lady who is efficient, rushed off her feet and charming all at the same time. Starters cost £3.95-£5.50 - mains are £7.50-£11. These are true gastropub prices. The food is honest - there could be no greater praise.

As a starter, salt and pepper squid salad with a sweet chilli dressing is exemplary - well-cooked squid, good green stuff, a twinge of chilli. Parma ham with caramelised beetroot and red onions is a terrific dish, with lots of sound ham and a pile of hot beetroot and onions adding complementary flavours. Even that old stager, chicken-liver pate, is a success, with a good, slightly coarse texture. Mains are 'in-your-face-ordinary' and none the worse for that. Chicken and ham pie, char-grilled sirloin steak, fresh tuna steak pan-fried, smoked haddock fishcake, rarebit sauce and spinach. The pie is tipped out of its dish on to your plate and the flaky pastry crust added. It is an enormous portion, well-seasoned, with tender meat. The fishcake comes with a splendid cheesy sauce and fresh spinach.

Puddings are also satisfying - chocolate cake, apple pie, plum crumble. The wine list is chalked up on a blackboard and offers a good range of mid-priced bottles. The Barnsbury is a grand place, and even in gastro-pretentious Islington will do very well.

Dinner for two with wine, £60

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