London is losing it's boozers, and I'm going to dance on their graves. Because every time a scary old men's pub shuts, a decent gastropub might just take it's place. Somewhere like The Barnsbury, for example.

What used to be a grim postie's pub has been stripped back to reveal lovely oak panelling, original fireplaces and floorboards. To drink, there's well-kept Abbot Ale, plus the usual nitrokeg beers and a short wine list.

The food's no slouch either, with organic produce used where possible. Slices of fabulous sourdough bread get things off to a good start; a perfect foil for a generous serving of French onion soup (£3.95). Main courses are equally hearty, such as coq au vin (£8.50). We couldn't resist the retro '70s sound of this dish; it wouldn't be a cock to crow about in rural France, but as a simple stew of chicken cooked in red wine it was ok. Better still was char-grilled pork chop, with perfect, classic matches of moist black pudding and cider jus (£8). A 'peasant apple pie' (£4) was good, thought the base was soggy as the crust hadn't been baked 'blind'.

The Barnsbury was oddly quiet on our evening visits. It shouldn't be - the staff are friendly, the rooms attractive, and both food and drink are superior to much of what you will find in nearby Upper Street. 

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